Sunday, January 17, 2016

Dancing with Strangers

The past few months have been rough for the blogging team here. Trying, exhausting, and absolutely tragic. There are some things in life that you can never plan nor prepare for. The end of this past year was very much that. My partner in crime lost her service dog suddenly to what vets could only theorize was a neurological disorder. I pulled Loki from public access work maybe permanently though I am still seeking a second opinion on his training issues.

My writing partner has a new puppy in training, new years and new beginnings and all that. A puppy co-bred by the breeder we'd earmarked for 4-5 years down the road for her, but sure didn't expect to be getting so soon. And I have Remy who is still on again, off again in training.

None of this is ideal, but it's a matter of making the most of what we have. I've often told people that in the good times working with a service dog is like dancing with your life partner of 40 years. So in sync with each other that you breath in time, and every motion is like an extention of yourself. Closer than husbands and wives and daughters and sons a service dog is more like and arm, a leg, the air you breath.
Emma the Borzoi and Handler

If working your own service dog is like dancing with your loved one, working a strange dog is like dancing with a stranger. Each is different, some you can follow intuitively in natural sync, other's stumbling stepping on toes and running into you, turning what should be poetry in motion into an effort of frustration and distinct discord. Training a young dog, and teaching someone to dance with a partner also have many things in common. Even if you know the moves your partner does not, you never know until you're midway into the dance if this partner can match your rhythm with grace, meet you in a breathless moment of freedom and flying.

Nothing feels right at the moment, unsettled like the ground beneath me could buckle up and swallow at any moment. This is not the all of training a new dog, there are moment's of brilliance, and it's easier when you have time to prepare. But I would say more people wash out second dogs than anything else when owner training. That transition from one partner to the next is hard enough, but from first partner, the one who set the bar to one that you can't help comparing it can be a near insurmountable task to move past the 'what ifs' and 'why can't you work forevers' to let in that new dog.

Baby dog isn't so much of a baby anymore
I love Remy, she's not a bad dance partner in that sense. She is in many ways great for me, she has a sunshiny energy that makes me smile. But as she turns a year old... today, tonight as I write this I'm just not sure that she's 'that' dance partner. Oh we could dance, and it would be technically correct in many ways but it lacks that spark. She can do the work, I have enough experience at least to admit that. I hold her back more than she holds me back. And all else fails I know we'll find joy together as competition partners... but if we'll dance along the light of day, or trip the light fantastic is still up for debate.

Thursday, November 19, 2015

Saxon is amazing and everything I could want or need in a service dog. I have had her for just over a year. She came home on October 14th, 2014. Many of the things I could not fathom doing due to my psychiatric conditions and symptoms I have since been able to not only do, but succeed at.


Since Saxon's arrival I have been able to:
-Start doing paid speaking engagements on topics surrounding mental health and mental illness.
-I learned how to drive and now have a driver's license.
-Feel comfortable to stand on a line to purchase something without dropping it and leaving.
-Go somewhere on my own without a chaperone.
-Start making my own doctor appointments.
-Organize my own medications for the week.
-Order for myself at a restaurant.

In the 13 months I've had her, she has flipped my life around completely, all for the better. The all consuming anxiety I felt during every moment of every day has drastically lessened. Most days I feel little, and sometimes even no anxiety at all. My fight or flight outbursts related to my severe inability to process sensory input, particularly when being touched by a stranger, have diminished to completely manageable and usually unnoticeable levels. I have been hospitalized for psychiatric reasons only twice in the year I've had her, which is a measurable drop from years previous.

I owe every bit of symptom lessening and overall psychiatric relief either directly (through tasks) or indirectly to Saxon. She wakes me up daily by standing over me and poking me in the face with her nose. As we go downstairs she runs roo-rooing happily through the house, announcing that she has met the morning. I take my medicine and walk her. I come inside and give her something to eat and try to drink a protein shake or eat a yogurt. I have two other dogs, but she needs exercise and work in ways they don't and never will. We play ball, tug, we're working on her catching a disc. (ALMOST!) We train: tricks, tasks, and practical skills that will aid us while we are working together in public. We go about our day and Saxon makes it go quickly, easily and smoothly.

Our nights are much the same, I feed and walk her and my other two dogs, I take my medication and we head upstairs. She may get a bully stick or other chewable treat if she's lucky, otherwise she goes off to settle somewhere in the room. Her favorite spots are the extra large squishy dog bed by the end of my bed, the bathroom floor or the foot of my bed. She makes nights easier because she's good company, and it's easier to sleep because I know she's there if I need her. Sometimes I just need comforting cuddles and I call her and she crawls on her belly from the foot of the bed right up next to me. She will lay her head on my chest and I will stroke her repeatedly from head to tail until we fall asleep.

Although she knows a number of tasks to help with symptoms associated with my psychiatric disabilities, she rarely has to perform them. For the most part my symptoms have abated to the point that I no longer need them. She is ready and able and her tasks are there if I do, but as of the past while (6-8 months) I have not. It is a wonderful feeling of freedom to walk out of the house and not worry about what may happen. It is wonderful to not wake up and my first thought be based in fear. It is wonderful that my dog has allowed me the capability to feel like I can BREATHE.

I'm ok with wanting to shout from the rooftops, "BECAUSE I HAVE MY SERVICE DOG I DON'T FEEL LIKE I NEED ONE!" At one point my psychiatric conditions were at the forefront, but like many others, I have multifaceted issues and co-occurring conditions. Although she cannot brace, Saxon is plenty big enough to press handicap buttons or doors on days my hands hurt, do momentum pulling, counterbalance, retrieve items I ask for, turn on and off lights, and she can even go get me my phone. My physical disability is currently more pressing, but my psych issues going on the back burner have not erased their existence.

As nice as it would be, Saxon has not permanently changed anything. She has helped me develop more coping skills, some independent of her that may be useful, but in her absence I am who I was prior to having her as my service dog. Without her I would surely slip back into struggling far more with my psychiatric conditions. She is a lifetime medication, not a quick fix antibiotic. I will be able to be my best and do my best if I have her as my service dog, and likely have another service dog after her, and maybe a successor to Saxon's successor and so on. I don't know.

My life today is wonderful as things with my psych conditions go. They are well managed by medication, therapy, sleep hygiene and exercise, and of course my service dog. They all go hand in hand, and after over a decade of struggling with serious, debilitating mental illness, dozens of acute psychiatric hospitalizations and three years collectively in my teens in locked psychiatric inpatient facilities, I'm happy to feel whatever relief I can get. I never know how long a period of stability will last and I know better than to guess, but I will work my service dog because although in this moment my psychiatric conditions are at peace, they will never go away. My ebb and flow struggle will be a lifelong journey as I deal with the constantly evolving symptoms caused by my persistent psychiatric disability.

No, today I do not feel disabled by my conditions. Yesterday, and the day before that too, I did not feel disabled by my conditions. May I wake up tomorrow and be admitted to an inpatient psych unit by the end of the night? I hope not, but it wouldn't be the first time... or the fifth either. The reality is, while dormant, I don't know when my psychiatric disability will rear its ugly head, or the violence and force with which it will do so. Until then, I have my stability, I have my routine, I have my pills, and the one who keeps it all going, I have Saxon. She's not a cure, but she's the best medicine for me!


Tuesday, November 17, 2015

Physical Fitness and Safety with Mobility Service Dogs

The job description of a mobility dog can include a myriad of things. Wheelchair pulling, button pushing, flipping light switches, counter balance, bracing, item retrieval, door opening and closing and momentum pulling, just to name a few. Whatever mobility tasks a service dog is trained to do are things they should be more than physically competent to perform.

For example: an 8 lb Papillon can do light item retrieval (keys, medicine) and may be able to operate a K9 phone, certain adapted light switches, open lower, lightweight doors, but they are in no way capable of pulling a wheelchair.

Another example: a 58 lb Chesapeake Bay Retriever (I'm using Saxon in this example!) can easily tug doors, turn on/off lights, press handicapped buttons, counterbalance, item retrieval and momentum pull, but is NOT capable of bracing. I will never ask her to learn to square up or stiffen her body for bracing. She will never be large enough to support the weight I carry.

Yet another example: a 90 lb Doberman can easily do most if not all mobility tasks that could be required, including bracing. A 90 lb dog will be large enough for most adults who are of average or overweight (NOT obese) size to do brace work with.

For this post I'm not mentioning program trained mobility dogs because they generally come with their own set of trained tasks, health check up, mobility harness/gear with usage instructions and have been chosen specifically for the client. The following questions are geared at those people who have mobility issues, either diagnosed or self assessed (symptoms can still impede your overall mobility) and decide to train a mobility dog for themselves.

What mobility tasks can you not live without?
First you need to have an honest discussion with yourself and anyone who knows you and your issues well (family member, friend, doctor) and can provide insight into tasks you may need. Come up with symptoms or scenarios that make a situation challenging or limit your mobility. Then assign tasks to those things you struggle with and rank them from most important to least. Make sure to distinguish between tasks you do not think you could function well or at all without, and those that would make your life easier. (get medication when you cannot get up to get it yourself vs. turn off your light at night when you're capable, but comfy in bed).

Is the dog large enough to be able to perform all the tasks you need ESPECIALLY if you want them to bare weight?
If you have a specific breed of dog in mind you should be comparing the average height and weight of that breed to what you are hoping to have the dog someday perform as tasks. There are a lot of weight ratios thrown around. I've heard the dog is supposed to be 50% of your weight and 40% of your height (measured from their shoulder) to be deemed large enough for heavy mobility such as bracing. It's 30% weight and 30% height for counterbalance and momentum pull I think. I'm not sure where these numbers came from or if they are just arbitrary percentages. I think for bracing 50/40% is accurate. Counterbalance and momentum pull I personally disagree with as I've seen videos of Chihuahuas pulling 500+ lbs in Weight Pull. In the right harness (not on a flat collar, prong collar, head collar or front clip harness) there should be absolutely no issues with straight momentum pull. But back to the bracing percentages. If you weigh 150 lbs and are 5'6, your dog needs to weigh 75 lbs minimum and be at least 26.5" at the shoulder. If you weigh 100 lbs I still think dogs should be minimum 60 lbs, but that's my personal feelings. Most dogs under 60 lbs don't have the bone build to support significant excess weight, even if only momentarily.

And in every single case where the dog will have any weight applied it is essential to your dog's health that you get the dog's hips and elbows x-rayed and then looked at by an orthopedic vet to determine joint health. Failure to do so could cause unnecessary pain and additional issues in a dysplastic dog. Although it is possible to get with a dog with great hips, either all but guaranteed by hip scores in the dog's lineage, or purely by luck. In any case though, a dog you are asking to physically support your weight for your health should not have their health left up to luck and chance. A dysplastic dog does not need to be supporting their handler's weight if they are struggling or could at any point begin to struggle to support their own. The dog should be 2 years prior to final x-rays that will determine the mature hips and joint structures of the dog. 2 years is generally when the joint capsules have closed, though in some giant breed dogs it may take up to 3 years for all joints to close and bones to have fused. It can seriously harm a puppy or young dog, even a large or giant breed, to brace on their unfused joints.


In the 2 week old pup there are clear spaces in the joint capsule of nothing. You can see how far the bones have to grow to be able to touch each other and create strong joints. The 7 month old has most of the bone structure but the bones are still softer as they have not are not fully hardened to how they will be as adults. The last photo is an x-ray of a dog with a healthy set of adult hips with hardened bones and complete joint sockets where the bones fit well together.

There are many mobility harness makers, several of them making custom harnesses to the dog's specifications. Unless you can go to the harness maker's store front to have your dog measured personally, the handler is often left to get their dog's own measurements. A proper rigid bracing harness consists of a a piece of metal that runs horizontally across the shoulders NOT vertically up the spine. The strongest point on dog to bare weight is right across the shoulders. When bracing on the shoulders it is imperative the dog be taught to square up and brace to minimize likelihood of injury for both dog and handler.

Prior to putting on any rigid handled harness, the dog must have already mastered squaring up and tensing up muscles prior. Training a mobility dog, contrary to some things I've seen floating around, is not as simple as throwing a harness over their head, buckling it up and just walking with it. The dog does not automatically know what to simply because they are now wearing a mobility harness. What I mean by this is the dog stands with both of their front feet together so the shoulders line up. The back feet are in line with the shoulders and are also square (not one significantly forward or backward). From this position the dog has the best ability to brace themselves effectively. I am using the word "Brace", but whatever you call it ("Stiff" "Hold" "Steady") the behavior is the same. The dog who has now mastered squaring their body will now need to learn how to stiffen their muscles in response to pressure being applied. This is NOT a behavior that can be introduced, learned and proofed in a single training session. This behavior also should NEVER be taught with a mobility harness. The harness should be added later once the brace behavior is solid.

Handle height is important. The proper way to measure for handle height is for you to up as straight as you can with your arms hanging loose at your side. Whichever side your dog heels on, make a loose fist with that hand. That is the height your mobility handle needs to be. Your shoulder should not raise to extend your arm nor should you be able to bend your elbow while holding the handle. When measuring for a handle you will stand as straight as you can, let your arm hang and hold it as if you are gripping a bar. It may actually help to hold a pen or marker while you are measuring from the distance from your hand to the floor. The other number needed to get a handle height is the dog's height. My dog is 23" at the shoulder. The height from my relaxed arm with a  closed fist to the floor is 30". Therefore I would need a handle height of 7".


It is not advised to do mobility with a dog for which you would require greater than a 6" handle. Although there are harness makers that will add handles of heights as high as 14", that is too high, and a dog can far more easily get harmed with the same action and force with a 10" rigid handle vs a 4" one. When a handle is too high too much pressure (such as a full force brace) or an incorrect brace (where the dog is not squared and the handler may not be completely next to or parallel to the dog and handle) it creates something called torque. Torque for those who aren't mechanics or into physics, is defined as: a twisting force that tends to cause rotation.

Naturally any twisting force repeatedly applied to the spine and shoulders of a dog of any size is as dangerous as it sounds. Since to my knowledge none of the rigid handle harnesses on the market come with a detailed instruction manual including safe, proper usage, the handler/owner of their service dog's new harness must now choose between trying to figure out what to do on their own or rely on the sometimes misguided advice of trainers or the internet. Bracing as carried out ideally will have the handler cue to the dog to stop or the dog auto stops. The handler asks the dog to square up if the dog has not already done so. The handler puts pressure on the handle to lever themselves up, usually from lower to higher ground (curb or stair) or from seated to rising such as standing from a chair. The dog remains still with muscles stiffened while the handler has hands on the handle. This is momentary pressure. The dog's back is not meant to sustain the prolonged pressure of an adult's body weight.

A dog should not be asked to brace while they are standing. The handle may be used for steadying purposes, such as reaching out to hold it or reorient in space, but at that point it is unsafe to apply any weight or downward force as the dog is not squared or prepared to brace. A rigid handle should not be used as a crutch or cane. Even a dog large enough to handle temporary bracing should not be subjected to step by step partial or full adult weight with downward force. If every step needs physical support above steadying simply by way of the handle simply being held, another mobility aid (cane, crutch, walker) may need to be added so the dog's safety can be ensured.

On the note of discussing bracing in motion, a dog cannot square their body in motion, so bracing with a handle of any height cannot and should not be done in motion. The handle is NEVER meant to be pushed forward or backward. It is NOT a guide handle. There are a multitude of other harnesses that have guiding handles or pull straps if that is what is needed. There are also harness makers who combine a mobility harness with a rigid handle with a guide handle or pull strap attached so the harness can serve both functions.

One thing I see frequently in some of the service dog gear groups targeted toward mobility harnesses is that people will buy a rigid handle thinking they need it or that their disability manifests itself far more physically than it actually does. I see a lot of people trying desperately to downgrade their rigid handle for a soft handled balance harness. One of the only real differences between a rigid handle and a non rigid one is that a non rigid handle cannot be used for bracing at all. It can however be pulled up on to help yourself up or to hold the handle while the dog leans the opposite way, providing momentum to help you right yourself. A non rigid can double as a leading harness and can be used for momentum pulling and counter balance.

With one final comment, if you require an 85 lb dog, a dog who would at peak fitness be 70 lbs should not be used because it weighs at or in excess of the necessary 85 lbs. A dog who carries a good deal of excess weight should not be used as a mobility dog. There is simply no selfless way to ask a dog, even a trained dog, to support your weight and many multiple excess pounds of their own. I'm not talking a 3-5 lbs too many. There are so many dogs I've seen who weigh probably 20-30 lbs overweight, and I've seen some who may even be 40+ lbs overweight working as bracing mobility dogs. It's just not fair. After a diet if they are healthy and fit (and evaluated by a vet to be cleared after a large weight loss) sure, but until then, the dog doesn't need to carry more than his own share of weight and yours too.

Just for kicks, here is my little Mochi dog wearing a mobility harness. She is a retired service dog, but she never was a mobility dog.



"Hey Mochi! What are your thoughts on small dogs, unhealthy dogs, other unsuited dogs being used as bracing mobility dogs? I'll make this tougher, contemplate this quandary! What if it's not an issue with the dog, but how the handler uses the harness? Mochi, think about this, what if it's both?"



That above is Mochi's response. She says USE COMMON SENSE! I concur. Wisely spoken, Little One, wisely spoken.

Wednesday, November 11, 2015

Disabled dogs as Service Dogs - Not a good idea!

This is my mom's dog Maddox. He has three legs. He isn't a
service dog, even though he is conditioned and takes joint
supplements, it wouldn't be fair to work him. After a while he 
does get tired of walking. He enjoys running, playing, hiking, 
and has a keen nose for sniffing out treats. He doesn't have to 
work to lead a fulfilling life doing things that make him happy.
Be it a disabled vehicle, a disabled person or a disabled animal, the word disabled means the same. The basic dictionary definition is being unable to perform one or more natural activities because of illness, injury, etc. In my past few years in the service dog community I've seen multiple people working dogs who are themselves disabled. In theory it is a sweet idea to have a disabled animal devoting their entire lives to their handler, and with what bits they each have, the handler and dog taking care of each other. In reality however, this is a surefire way to produce burn out the dog, both emotionally and most certainly physically.


I've heard so often:
"Her seizures don't affect her that often. I can tell when they will happen and I take her home. Also she's on medication so they don't happen really ever."
"His cleft lip and palate doesn't affect him. I bottle raised him so he is happy to help me. Who cares if he has to eat and drink a little differently? He doesn't breathe much different than any other dog, and it doesn't matter, I don't like the heat either."
"Her anxiety is much better when she takes her medication. She doesn't hate working though, she's just a lot less scared when she has her medicine. It's not like she would ever hurt anybody."
"He's deaf but he never is supposed to be off leash anyway according to the law, so I can tap on him on the back to get his attention. He doesn't get upset if he knows it's me touching him, but he's really gentle so I don't think he'd ever do more than look back and then look to me for me to tell him it's ok if someone else touched him."
"She's blind but she's still a great service dog. I just try and keep her from bumping into things by pulling on the leash. Being blind doesn't stop her from alerting to my condition!"
"He only has three legs, but I promise you he can run faster with three legs than most dogs with four. He loves being with me and I try and get breaks so he can lie down and rest. He's healthy and happy so he doesn't mind steadying me if he needs to."
"She has hip dysplasia and severe arthritis, but I give her supplements. She's spoiled, she doesn't mind. Her being quiet and looking upset is not her actually being upset, she just looks serious because she's got a serious job to do - helping me!"

Almost inevitably by the time I see one of these online threads or conversations still taking place, someone has already used the statement or some variation thereof, "The blind leading the blind." Even if you don't use your dog with seizures as your seizure dog, a deaf dog as your hearing dog, or something along those lines, using a disabled dog is not ideal. There are thousands and thousands of young, healthy, temperamentally sound dogs who could be trained to be fabulous working service dog partners for virtually any disability or combination of disabilities. The right dog for any person with their given disability(s) is out there, and that dog isn't disabled either.

I feel like if I were to say to someone with a disability, "I am nominating you to come with me every day, everywhere I go and do this job for me. Here are the job requirements, I know you can do it because I love you and you're perfect for the job and you are special and valued. Even if you don't succeed I'll give you infinite chances to keep on trying. You are so needed and wonderful, I'll make it so you can't fail in my eyes!" I feel like that would be seen quite offensively and be countered with some comment about how they are disabled and there are limits to when and where they can go places and being unable to choose to enter or leave a job is unfair. I don't disagree one bit. I just feel the same should hold true to the disabled dogs these same people choose to work, and choose to put through the same job rigors as the hypothetical listed above. They can't verbalize that they do not want to work, so we must make the ethical choice not to work them as a service dog.

I often hear the statement "But they need a job!" Well, yes, but it doesn't have to be a physically strenuous and demanding job in which they could well be kicked,  run over or into with a cart, touched, pulled, screamed at, hugged, or any variety of things that could potentially upset even a more sensitive service dog, much less one who may not be able to have all of their senses intact to interpret and process the situation. Certain disabled dogs do really well as therapy dogs and some can even do dog sports or obedience as long as their physical needs are respected. In any case though, sports, obedience, tricks, therapy, none of this has a 24/7 job requirement. If a dog is hurting in a competitive run, they will be almost certainly be encouraged to sit out the next ones in the immediate future until they recover. Like humans, disabled dogs have days where they have more pain or less, more cognition or less, more stability or less. As you cannot speak to your dog, you can only go off of physical behavior and some dogs are very stoic creatures. You may not know something is really hurting or "off" until there is a serious issue. For example: some dogs with seizures develop temporary aggression. I'd hate to see the dog have a seizure right as a kid is passing by with a hand outstretched.

Back to the meaning of disabled. If you are disabled, there are things you simply cannot do on your own. Partnering with a dog who is also limited in their capacity means that you are stuck doing things for each other, sometimes incompatible things. Say you are wheelchair bound. Your dog with anxiety gets so crippled that in your fluster you drop your bag containing both your medication and hers. She is freaking out, you are struggling with your mobility and she is no help because she is having a doggy version of a panic attack. This is a bad situation that could have been completely avoided had you had a healthy dog in the beginning. The dog would have seen your need, possibly pre-anticipated it, gotten your medication bag and that would be that. No need to procure your bag from the floor, shelve your mobility and pain issues for the moment to shove pills down a highly anxious dog's throat in the middle of a mall (or anywhere!). All pain and discomfort on behalf of everyone (you, dog, passersby) would have been completely avoided.

I understand the idea of making an existing disabled pet a service dog is tempting. You love them, they love you, there is a preexisting bond. Same to getting a dog who you feel you will connect with because both you and the dog have disabilities. All dogs with healthy temperaments will bond if you are open to bonding with them. Simply do your dog a courtesy as a living being. If you would be uncomfortable with the terms, conditions and clauses of what your dog's current or proposed work, don't reciprocate and force it on your dog. They can't tell you no, they would prefer not to go to work.

Again, so many available dogs are out there who are perfect for you. One of them would love to accompany you everywhere and help you out as much as you need. This dog out there has a fabulous work ethic and incredible bonding ability. This dog aims to please you and worship you and help you in whatever way possible with a grin and a tail wag. A dog that brings complete freedom to the disabled handler is an ideal service dog. Disabled dogs are not broken, but they should be physically and emotionally healthy to stand up to the requirements imposed by the job.

Every disabled person I know (and probably the majority of everyone else) has at least one time pushed themselves past their limit to leap hurdles backward for someone they love. And in almost all cases, even if it was worth it to see the person you love happy and healthy, it was not worth it for the symptoms that come after. Overextending your limits and boundaries hurts in almost every way possible, and I for one know I feel it for days after at times. When a single isolated event of pushing yourself leaves you hurting and sapped of energy for days after, what happens when you do it all day every day and there is never an opportunity to truly rest? This is the life of a disabled service dog. Even when they are resting, they are, to some degree, on call. 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, 365 days a year until they are retired or succumb and pass away.

There are things your dog, disabled or not, will do for you because they love you. The things they do because they love you should not be confused with things they do for you because they want to do them. Your service dog is your personal disability aid. They do things so you can be healthy. The kindest, best way you can support your disabled dog is by allowing them to do healthy things of their choosing. This may include finding a part time job (such as therapy, sports, nosework or tricks) or maybe they would prefer to lay on the couch most days and go to the park on occasion to play ball or go for a hike. Love shouldn't be a sacrifice and it doesn't have to hurt. This goes both ways. Treat your disabled dog with the dignity and respect you would hope would be afforded to you.

Tuesday, November 3, 2015

How to handle encountering another service dog team

My service dog and I have been a team for long enough that she is now a natural extension of me. We move together as one. I put on her gear every day and take her out wherever I go. She is just another part of my life. I have normalized life with a dog by my side, so it is just a piece of that norm to have her with me when I shop, when I go to the doctor, and when I eat at a restaurant. Yet I still need to remind myself at times, what is my norm is not the norm of most everyone around me. While they are becoming increasingly common, most people, particularly in smaller communities, have never seen a service dog in person before, and they are novelties.

To the general public, they are a foreign body in an otherwise consistent environment. The grocery store is the grocery store. People pushing carts, picking up items for future meals. If you add a dog into the equation it seems to throw off the store's equilibrium. People are no longer focusing on what brand of salad dressing to buy, they are instead focusing on the fact that there is a dog in the store.

I tend to see a whole range of emotions when I pass through a large crowd. Excitement, joy, fear, disgust, hesitance. They don't know me or my dog and don't know if my dog has any malign intentions. I don't blame them, as I actually know just how that feels. Everything I just described is exactly how I feel when I see another service dog team. I often feel joy at knowing that I am not alone. I often feel hesitant as I do not know the other dog. What happens if I round a corner and they are there? What happens if their dog is not friendly? What if it jumps on or even bites my service dog? I'll be honest too, I've felt disgusted when I see a dog behaving in ways that I would never allow my service dog dream of acting.

Most of all though, I feel conflicted. I was walking down the street not too long ago with my girl at my side. Just inside the window of a small coffee shop was a medium sized, long haired, black dog. The dog was wearing a plain red vest and laying quietly under a table while the handler, a woman in her early 30's sat on a stool reading a book and sipping a coffee. I wanted nothing more than to walk inside, order a coffee, stick my dog under the empty table next to her and strike up a conversation. She looked like me, a young woman, healthy in appearance with a well behaved dog!

I debated doing just that, going in and talking to her. Then I realized something: I don't generally like when people come running up to me to talk to me. There are times I don't mind it, and sometimes I can even enjoy certain conversations, but if it was me in that coffee shop engulfed in a good book, allowing the atmosphere and coffee aroma to surround me, the last thing I'd want is for anyone to come up and break me from that. If I was in her place, the last person I'd want bothering me would be someone else with a dog. I would immediately be put on high alert because I'd be taken off guard and I'd become immediately aware that my service dog was laying vulnerable under the table. I don't know the other dogs I encounter in public. They could be epic dogs with the ability to drive a car, but they could just as easily be a dog that will do fine walking through life next to their handler, yet will lose their brain when they see another dog. Some dogs will jump and bark excitedly, others will react aggressively and viciously. Who am I to be able to accurately assess a dog in a split second if someone comes up from behind, dog at their side and rips me from my own world, even with a simple "Hello"?

When I see another team, occasionally I'll watch for a few seconds from afar, or if I catch the other handler's eye I'll smile, because I get it. Often when I do smile I'll see the recognition, because I know they get it too. There are however, things I do not do. I do not follow SD teams through the aisles, either to watch them, work up the courage to talk to them, or even despicably gather (or worse, record) evidence of the dog not acting as an ethical or appropriate service dog to show to a store manager, security guard or the internet. I do not pass by them hoping their dog will react so I can have a story to tell. I do not take pictures to post online. In short, I do not do anything to another team that I would feel uncomfortable to know was done to me.

I, like many, still crave the idea of being able to meet up with those people who have service dogs, who do understand what it's like. I regularly engage in service dog meet ups. Social media is a fabulous place to find, chat with and arrange meet ups with other service dog handlers. I have some general rules I've set for myself regarding meet ups though, all with safety for both dog and handler in mind.

1. Meet in a public place and let someone in your life know where you are going and when to expect you back.
This is important because not everyone has pure intentions despite how kind they sound online. It is best to be cautious the first few times you meet someone. Anyone reasonable should be quite understanding of this.
2. Meet outside to begin with.
In the event that one or both service dogs react to each other it is ideal to be outside where handlers can walk away and retry or offer corrections. It is not polite to have loud, growling, or excited and jumping dogs inside of an establishment.
3. Walk side by side for a bit, humans on the inside, dogs on the outside (or some distance in between if both dogs heel on the same side)
Even though seasoned service dogs should be able to handle walking side by side with another dog, it is still best to allow them time to get used to walking in a public place near a new dog, particularly if one or both of the dogs have not had multiple meet up experiences with other service dogs.
4. If dining together, use caution under tables at first.
Two dogs that just met being crammed under a table could be uncomfortable if they are still unsure about each other. It can be difficult to see what is happening with dogs under a table, particularly if you are enjoying your meal and discussion, so proceed carefully.
5. Respect limits!
Not all disabled handlers or service dogs have the capabilities that you or your service dog may. They may need to leave after a short period, or may need to take extended breaks. Be mindful that not everyone or every dog experiences things as you and your dog do.
6. HAVE FUN!
Meet ups are meant to be fun, not stressful. Figure out things that can make meet ups most enjoyable for all involved.

The last thing to cover would be what to do if you are approached by a team and you do not feel comfortable or able to chat. "Sorry, I'm not able to talk right now," is always appropriate. There is no need to explain any further. You do not owe someone the details of your disability, your dog's tasks or training, what your diagnoses are, or any other intimate question, just because someone has a service dog with them. If you do feel like chatting, that is up to you, but also be aware that you are under no obligation to continue to participate in a conversation if you begin to feel uncomfortable or if your dog seems uncomfortable. Like with any person you will ever choose to meet up with or talk to, you have the right to feel comfortable in your conversation and you are not required to talk about anything you do not want to talk about. You have every right to postpone or end a conversation if you feel your service dog requires it.

Service dog friends can be some of the best though, both for the dogs and for the people!

Friday, October 30, 2015

The power of Stay



Things we should train for but don't for fear of the service dog community, otherwise known as "Why I included both an out of sight stay and a 30 foot down stay on my newest public access test."

Recently I've been revamping my public access test. I don't formally take clients for training at the moment, and unless something in my health improves I likely won't for the foreseeable future. That said I still will volunteer my time to do public access tests for friends and local service dog people, and when I'm done revamping my public access test to be better in line with my own training goals with service dogs I'll put it back online publicly for other people to use.

All of this is a prequel to what started out as an innocent video of my own service dog and a friend's service dog doing a 10 foot in sight, 3 minute stay in a very public and very busy place that started a witch hunt. Why this started a witch hunt I will never know, except that many times we in the service dog community try to protect newbie handlers from their own stupidity, or people are just jerks. Privately I'm going with that second option but that is neither here nor there.

For me personally the stay is one of the absolute most important skills my service dog will ever learn. Stay is a very generalized concept that can include 'lay down and stay still while I swipe my credit card' to the more complex 'lay behind this wall with the tech where you can't see me while a bunch of loud machines move around me'. One of these stays I will use every day, the other I may not use very often but there is a wide range of 'stay' in between the two that it is important that any service dog will need to understand.

Stay is at it's simplest form nothing more than a static position. A sit or a down is no use to a handler if their dog pops up right after doing the behavior. But I also need a 'stay here' command. stay here while I pick up a bag that is going to take two hands, stay here while I grab a pack of gum one foot away, stay here while I dig through my purse. No matter how you handle your service dog you will use a basic stay in every outing you have.


`~~~~~~~~~~~


So why then do I chose the rather controversial route and take the requirements of my public access test even farther? Because I don't train for the every day, and I don't test for the every day. I want to know that not only can my dogs, and the dogs I train, handle the every day but also can handle that day that something unusual happens.

My stay requirements in my Public Access Test now include three separate yes/no pass/fail stays that go far beyond the ADI's 6 foot held leash stay. I include a 30 foot dropped leash stay, an out of sight stay, and a 1 minute stay.

And honestly I don't think these are enough. I'm going to use at least two of these and more complicated stays in the course of a dogs working life. I'm going to use far more than a 1 minute stay during regular doctors appointments where my dog is going to be required to lay out of the way during exams and me moving around with people coming in and out of the room. I'm disabled, doctors appointment for Me are a regular and unpleasant part of life and if my dog can't handle them I'm just going to feel worse about the whole thing. I'm going to have to use out of sight stays many times when having x-rays, MRI's or any other procedure that I may or may not be able to have a back up handler with me to grab the leash while I do whatever. In many of these the stay is also going to add duration of up to or even over 30 minutes.

I'll admit that there is not going to be many situations (outside of the MRI/x-ray situation) that I need to be 30 feet from my dog. But there is going to be a multitude of times, and reasons that I'm going to need to drop the leash and step away from my dog for a second.  Many will claim that is because I'm a lax handler, or come up with excuses why the leash should Always be held but most of these reasons won't hold water. It's a fact of life for me that there are times when intentionally or unintentionally I'm going to drop a leash. It is vital for my dog to remain under control in All of these situations, not only in control, but also stay relaxed, calm and not concerned.

I test my stay, and practice my stay all the time. Because I need to Use my stay.

Stay isn't the only thing I do differently. I have a bunch of commands on my public access test that I include that other public access tests do not include because I and every handler I know Use ease of handling commands or if they don't, could if they had them.

I don't think a public access test should test the minimal skill required of my dog on their best day. I think it should test their skills and their mettle under the worst life can throw at them because that is the day that I'm going to need their training the most. And let's face it. Most handlers aren't also trainers, so before I hand off a dog as trained I want to make sure it is trained to as high a level as I can mange so even if skills slip that dog will still be functional, safe and professional in public.

Just my honest opinion. Plus it opens you up to a world of epic photo opportunities. Cheers, and happy staying from Loki and I.


Saturday, October 24, 2015

Owner Training - A Novice's View


People seem to think OTing is easy. In reality it's a crapshoot. There are some guide schools that have been breeding dogs from their own stock for 60+ years, yet the percentage of dogs born that go on to be full working guide dogs average at about 50-60%. This is from programs who have puppy breeding, puppy rearing, puppy raising, puppy training and furthered training down to as much of a science as you can possibly have with living, breathing animals. When you switch over to owner training, add in a dog who may or may not have been from healthy genetic lines, both physically and temperamentally, and you add in a handler who may have no idea what they're doing, with potentially no outside support, the chances go from crapshoot to lottery win.

I'll go into my own experience about the process of training my own service dog. I met up with a trainer when I was 17 and soon after my 18th birthday began to live with her. She promised she could get me a service dog trained and I, in all of my naîveté, believed her. The idea was that she would help me pick an appropriate SD candidate and I would train it under her watchful eye. (Jeanene's interjection - The trainer in question was dubious at best and much of what follows could have been avoided. The trainer was not mentally and physically stable enough on their own to properly support a novice first time owner trainer, and lacked the follow through and stability on their own to actually make service dog training work. All the more reason to be careful how you pick a trainer for Service work)

My first attempt at training a service dog began with me at 17 with my very sweet Border Collie/Corgi mix, Rocko. I had gotten him as my first dog, my pet, but decided he would do well as a service dog. I did not have him evaluated, I just decided he would do well since we bonded and he learned quickly, he enjoyed being with me and being out and about. I bought him a "Therapy Dog in Training" vest that he wore, and I was proud of him. We at that point met up with the aforementioned trainer and she took us on. Not long into his training the trainer beckoned a mother and child of about 10 over and asked the child to pet Rocko. The child bent down and hugged Rocko around the neck. Rocko bit her just above the eye. I was horrified and he never worked again. He is still my pet at now 10 years old, and doesn't go out often anyway, rarely without a muzzle, and never around children.

My first purchased prospect was a Cardigan Welsh Corgi female, Scout. I wanted something smallish, blue merle and cute but smart. I liked Corgis because Rocko was part Corgi. I found Scout online on Puppyfind. There were 3 other females available from the same breeder. I liked Scout best because she had the nicest markings. I asked the breeder the questions that my trainer told me to ask. I'm not sure exactly how I asked them, but I am positive they were leading. She stated that the best one for what I was looking for was Scout. My parents and I wired her the money and she shipped me a puppy sight unseen. The puppy was horrendously anxious and (I say this now having worked with quite a few more dogs than I had then) not that bright. Overall she did not have anywhere near what I was looking for for a service dog temperament.

My next SD prospect I switched around what I was looking for. I was now looking for something small, easily held, fluffy, and intelligent enough to cue into my high levels of anxiety and overall stress (being 18 and away from home for the first time is stressful!). I found on Puppyfind, again, a breeder who was kind and said all the right things to make me feel comfortable and happy. I went to her house and picked out a cute squirming little cotton ball pup. Kismet was a Havanese x Cavalier King Charles x Toy Poodle pup. She was very sweet and exactly what I'd wanted. She bonded to the point of severe separation anxiety, and she picked up on my anxiety and fed into it. I had her in vest, her little pink vest, several times and she just couldn't handle it.

It was at this point that the trainer and I had a sit down talk about what I wanted and needed. We decided a Rough Collie would be ideal. We spent the morning looking at breeders online, found one 4 hours drive away and met her. The puppies were 6 weeks old, dirty and in the stalls of what looked like a run down two stall horse shack. We were there at 12am and it was cold, pouring rain and there was no evaluation, just pick a puppy, pay and run. Phina actually likely could have become a service dog if I'd had the training ability I do now and the support I was lacking from the trainer I had. She was fearless and easily trainable, excitable and intrigued with the world. I was struggling though, and instead of offering me support, the trainer suggested I abandon ship, so I found her a new home.

The next dog was also a Collie, this time a smooth coat. I found her on my own and met the breeder in the parking lot of a Walmart to do an assessment. I performed an adapted Volhard Puppy Aptitude Test since Ona (the Collie) was 2 years old. I was desperate for a service dog prospect that would work out, that I could start training with. I, in theory knew how to perform the test but saw what I wanted to. I took her home, she was a nightmare with separation anxiety, drooling to the point of dehydration since she refused food and water, and would not sit. I now look back and think she had hip dysplasia, possibly severe, but the breeder didn't disclose that, and I didn't know to ask or to look for it either. She stayed with me 2 days before I begged the breeder to meet me and take her back.

Then I went to an AKC Responsible Dog Ownership Day to meet the breeds and reassess what I wanted. I got to chatting with a lady with a Dalmatian. Mandy, the Dal she had with her was adoptable and we bonded. I met up with her many times and tried the dog out. She was a little spooky before I took her home, but I was convinced that bond, time and training would settle that. She quickly evidenced herself as extremely dog aggressive, and as I had other dogs, she had to go back.

Then came Mateo. Mateo was a super sweet guessed Giant Schnauzer x Standard Poodle from a rescue. He was energetic and cheerful, excited to be with me but not overly attached in any negative way. He likely also could have made it through to being a service dog if I'd had the proper supports. The trainer, who I was still living with, decided that he would never really be good for me and so she got my parents on board with that idea and found him a home.

At this point I was very frustrated and at the insistence of several friends with lived service dog knowledge and experience, including my co-blogger Jeanene, I decided to apply to a program. Things progressed well and the trainer at the program seemed to think things were going great. On the website it advertised that Team Training would be 2 weeks long. I was told 1 week on the phone. The matching process was supposed to be me coming up to meet with several eligible dogs, but instead I was told I lived so far away that I was not going to be required to do so. Instead I was asked about my lifestyle, the animals in the house and their sexes, and was told the trainer was thinking of two black Lab brothers. She asked if I liked serious or silly. I went with the goofy dog. That is how I was matched with Echo.

Jeanene and SDIT Loki, who was at the time under a year old, went to New Mexico with me. The trainer was unhappy Jeanene had Loki and segregated us whenever possible. At the end of 4 days the trainer graduated us. We were officially a team! We flew home and began life in suburban North Carolina, a stark difference from nothing but desert for many miles on end. I was told Echo would adjust, and he perhaps could have if I had not had battling input on how to retrain some of the issues he was exhibiting from my original trainer and another service dog handler. I was confused, Echo was developing separation anxiety and I was getting no support from the program trainer in New Mexico. His anxiety grew as mine did, he quickly wanted nothing to do with me and would balk when I'd ask him to work as my anxiety spiked. Ultimately I returned him to the program after he growled at a child who ran out in front of him and the program trainer told me to comfort him. I just couldn't do it anymore. (Jeanene's interjection - Overall a lot of issues with this dog were likely caused by a mix of his lack of proper socialization, and the 'support' of Ariel's trainer who with the help of another friend convinced Ariel that Echo had been abused during training and needed a full retraining with her methods.  It is my personal feeling though that this dog was just a bad personality match for Ariel and would have been better suited for a handler without mood instability) 

While still trying to make Echo work my current trainer took me with her to look at a small terrier type mix, prospect for her possible service dog program and I fell in love. Mochi had no interest in the trainer, but curled up in my lap and shook. I took her home and began working with her. She quickly began waking me from nightmares and doing unprompted behaviors that were quite useful for some of my psychiatric symptoms. She was 12 lbs of everything I'd never wanted in a dog, much less a service dog. She taught me how to be a real service dog trainer, how to start learning to problem solve. She was my first true working service dog, that actually worked with me and for me. Although Mochi never worked at full capacity and ultimately did have to retire due to a reappearance in her fear issues and associated skittishness, I don't regret a moment of working with her.

I was offered by the trainer I had been living with for almost 3 years at this point, to purchase a Newfoundland male she had bred. I met her right as the litter was born, actually. Nova had been sent to a neglectful home, wasn't too healthy, had questionable hips, and I was too desperate to care. When she told me she would help me train him I believed her. When she told me he was healthy, I believed her. He didn't have half the training she said he had, and he wasn't the right dog for me anyway. He was too big, too lumbering, too slow. I gave him back so I could try and find a dog who I did mesh well with.

At that point, I found a wonderful breeder of Silken Windhounds and I ended up with one of her pups. There wasn't a thing in the world wrong with Astra, yet I didn't "click" with her and I didn't enjoy training a sighthound nearly as much as I thought I would. I contacted the breeder and we discussed finding her a show home, and that is exactly what happened.

I had moved home and was going without the help of the trainer at this point, so I went to the local animal shelter and picked out a super sweet pittie mix, Jada. She had been there several months before and had been returned and none of the shelter staff or myself could figure out why. She was learning well, I was enjoying her, I was enjoying playing with her and getting out to pet friendly places to work with her. Things were looking up, and then she started growling. First at things outside of the car, then at men, then at people in uniform, and then she bit me. I'm looking at the puncture scar on my hand as I type this. She bit me and then bit me again harder. Ultimately it was decided that she was not a good prospect for re-homing, and her increasing issues made her unsafe for myself and the other dogs in the house and we opted to have her euthanized.

That brings me to my current service dog, Saxon. Jeanene and I had been looking ever since I made the decision to retire Mochi because I needed a true working service dog more urgently than ever. We contacted dozens of people and looked at hundreds of dog ads. I had turned the search over to Jeanene, as I had finely broke with the trainer I had been working with. Jeanene convinced me that what I needed was a green or started dog. Jeanene found Saxon's ad, an 11 month old green Chesapeake Bay Retriever female from a reputable breeder who health tested their breeding stock, in the hands of a trainer with credentials from a training school she trusted. I contacted, and after many days of back and forth I went to meet her, and she was mine. She stayed on with him for a few more months so he could instill the confidence I didn't have the ability to at the time. She came home a fairly confident and exuberant pup, but ready to work and learn. We've been working side by side for a little over a year now.

Saxon is the epitome of everything I needed in a service dog, and in many ways the exact opposite of what I wanted and thought I needed. She is right about 52 lbs. She isn't 6 lbs, she isn't 106 lbs. She is gorgeous, but she isn't flashy. She isn't blue merle, she isn't small with flowing curls, she isn't huge with a giant ruff. She's goofy, but she's dead serious when she needs to be. She loves to exercise as much as I can but is happy to lay on the bed if I'm not feeling well. She is very bonded to me but doesn't internalize any anxiety or emotions that I may be feeling. She is full of quirks, some that I like, some that are annoying, just like any dog, but she is an absolute lesson that THE RIGHT DOG ISN'T ALWAYS THE ONE YOU WANT, IT'S THE ONE YOU NEED.

The trainer I worked with was not at all helpful, and in most situations to some degree detrimental, but this is the real world. Just because someone talks a good talk or is able to prove their ability in one facet of dog training doesn't mean that they can assess or train service dogs. Like many others, I learned the hard way. If you are looking for a trainer, particularly one that trains service dogs, I would ask for credentials and client referrals. Any trainer with either of these should be happy to provide them to you. It is also important to make sure the trainer is experienced in training dogs for your disability or your disabling symptoms. You're not going to want someone who has experience training Diabetic Alert Dogs to be training your hearing dog, and vice versa, you don't want a hearing dog trainer to train your DAD. People tend to specialize, so be wary of trainers who feel confident they can do it all.

I have heard time and time again that OTing is far less expensive than programs. There are plenty of programs for most disabilities that provide no or low cost (less than $5000) service dogs that have happy clients saying the dog they received is well trained. While I have had quite a time finding a temperamentally sound, physically healthy working partner that was able to do what I needed, I can't imagine others haven't had just as much difficulty if not more. I'd love to play the "what if" game, and think, well, what if I had known what I wanted from the beginning, what if I hadn't been so set on breed or physical appearance, what if I'd not had crappy trainers and people trying to undermine me with their egos and talked up inexperience. Ultimately though, what happened is how it is, and I've learned much more about myself and my actual needs by being able to say, "Well that didn't actually work..." as well as how to find an appropriate trainer and how to become a better trainer myself.

Because Echo was my program dog I'll use him as my monetary guide for a program dog cost. He came to me at 2 years old and this was the entirety of the cost I had to pay of him for those 2 years of training and raising. Also, a leash, collar, vest, some food, some toys and grooming supplies were also provided:

Round trip plane tickets: $800
Rental car (4 days): $300
Hotel (4 days): $350
Food in NM (4 days): $200
Echo's full cost: $5000
TOTAL: $6650

I'll now use Saxon. Everything figured will be from when I bought her through the 16 months it took to finish her public access and task training for her to be a full service dog.

UPFRONT

Gas to meet her (NC to OH):                                     $150
Hotel (2 days):                                                           $250
Food in OH (2 days):                                                 $100
Saxon + boarding/training + delivery                      $8000
                                                                                 $8500

(Dog from Health tested parents, evaluated by a proper trainer with experience this can be more or less depending on your criteria)
VET COSTS
Spay:                                                                           $300
Post op medications:                                                   $120
Routine vet visits:                                                       $240
Rabies shot (2 over 16 month period:                          $60
Microchip:                                                                    $20
Heart worm test:                                                           $40
Flea and tick medication                                             $400
Emergency Vet bill:                                                    $375
                                                                                  $1555

FOOD
Balanced Diet:                                                             $600
Water/Food bowls:                                                        $10
Edible chews:                                                              $400
Training treats:                                                            $300
                                                                                   $1310

MISCELLANEOUS
Education cards:                                                            $25
ADA law cards:                                                             $20 
Toys:                                                                            $320
Poop bags:                                                                      $85
Crate:                                                                              $80
Collapsible travel bowl:                                                 $10  
                                                                                      $540

TRAINING
Treat pouch:                                                                     $15
Training classes:                                                             $500
Private sessions:                                                             $600
CGC testing:                                                                    $10                 
CGC-A testing:                                                                $10
Place bed:                                                                         $60
                                                                                      $1195
GROOMING
Shampoo:                                                                          $60
Brush:                                                                                $10
Ear cleaner:                                                                       $10
Nail clippers:                                                                     $15
Dremel:                                                                              $30
                                                                                         $125
GEAR
As for gear I'll include one thing of the cheapest price as she has multiple leashes, collars, harnesses and vests.
Vest:                                                                                  $30
Patches:                                                                             $20
Harness:                                                                           $375
Leash:                                                                                $20
Collar:                                                                                $15
ID tag:                                                                                $10
Boots:                                                                                 $60
Coat:                                                                                   $50
Mutt Muffs:                                                                        $45
Leash wraps:                                                                       $30
                                                                                          $655

TOTAL:                                          $12570

Again, most of this is low end approximate. I'm positive the actual cost is far higher. This is just Saxon though. Assuming I had started with Saxon she still would have come out well more expensive than an average program dog, and far more than a low cost one. Unfortunately she was not my first attempt. I am going to guess at an overall number because I want people to know that because of the nature of OTing and that the first and sometimes next few subsequent attempts of most first time OTers will fail and be washed out, the cost of training is exponentially higher. I'd guess there has been over $25,000-30,000 spent on dog purchase prices, travel/shipping expenses, dog training classes and dog supplies between my first SD training attempt and Saxon. Some of it did not come out of my pocket or my parents pocket and was graciously donated, yet it is still an incredible amount of money.

Trainers are expensive. Dogs are expensive. Supplies are expensive. But so too, is failing. Failing is very expensive. With a program dog you will be receiving a fully trained dog who has already theoretically succeeded in jumping the physical, temperamental and training barriers associated with becoming a full fledged SD. Owner training can be heartbreaking as there is a high washout rate to begin with, and that is with the deck already stacked in your favor (health tested dogs from good genetic stock, enriching upbringing, early training, knowledgeable handler OTer and knowledgeable back up trainer(s) for opinion(s) ). If you don't have all of that or possibly any of that your road could get very tough very quickly. This post is not to discourage OTing, more to give an actual taste as to what the opposite side of "It's great, it's quick, it's easy and then you can have a dog with you all the time!" is.

Do what's right for you, but don't sit in a corner alone. That never helps anyone, and had I been able to turn back the clock, I'd have put a respectable trainer right alongside me. Asking for help is not dishonorable and it doesn't reflect poorly on you. ALL owner trainers should have a trainer helping them, so there is no shame in admitting you'd like a second opinion. Surround yourself with people who want you and your dog to succeed, yet be prepared that some dogs don't. In that case, pick yourself up and keep on moving forward. If at first you don't succeed, try, try again (and again, and again and again) and then try something else (like a program or a board and train situation). The ethereal creature that is a working service dog absolutely does exist, and while it isn't always an easy road to find it, rest assured it can be found, and you too can find it as well.